Rangefinders
I often hear people say shooting a rangefinder ‘slows you down’ or ‘makes you more intentional’, but I wanted to create a more comprehensive guide to what is functionally different about shooting a rangefinder camera compared to other mirrorless or SLR systems.
tl;dr
In brief, shooting an optical rangefinder camera does not provide you a preview of exposure, depth of field, or precise framing. It forces you to imagine the shot, which demands you become more engaged with the process of taking the photograph, rather than reacting to what you are seeing and making adjustments as a response.
The lack of automatic focus is another variable to manage. It forces you to constantly stay aware of your composition. The process of manual focus can potentially make you miss shots if you are unable to lock focus in time.
The experience of using a rangefinder changes with time. Rangefinder users eventually learn to constantly think ahead. For example, focus is always on your mind and you start to preemptively choose your focal distance and aperture setting as you see a scene unfold. Some would argue this allows you to get a shot faster than you could with an automatic focus system.
Taking photographs with a rangefinder is more challenging than most other camera systems. It requires you to have an understanding of the effects of exposure, shutter speed, aperture and the properties of a focal plane.
The system also has unique limitations. You are unable to accurately frame a shot at close distance due to parallax, the optical viewfinder lacks compensation for vision issues, and you must shoot at human eye level to focus and frame.
Mastery of the system can be rewarding, and shots end up feeling more intentional.
This guide tries not to assume you are shooting digital or film. The primary difference is additional limitations with film (no image preview, locked ISO, no EVF, etc.).
Focusing
The first thing you will notice when shooting an optical rangefinder is that you must focus every shot manually. The way you find focus is through a device called a 'patch'. The patch is a rectangle in the center of the viewfinder. It moves horizontally when you change focus. When vertical lines in your scene align in the patch, you have found your plane of focus. If you cannot find vertical lines in your scene, you can rotate the camera to use the patch to find horizontal lines.
If there are no strong lines in your scene or you are shooting a very dark scene, it can be more challenging to find tack-sharp focus.
The patch placement forces you to move the camera to center the area you intend to focus on. You then recompose your frame after focus is achieved. This process can 'slow you down' because you are required to find focus before taking your shot, especially at wider apertures when the plane of focus is more critical.
Most rangefinder lenses show you the numerical distance of focus on the lens. They also often show you the range of focus you will be able to achieve using any particular aperture. This allows you to perform behaviors like 'zone focusing'. For example, I may be walking down the street and see a scene unfolding at a distance. I can estimate the distance and set my aperture in advance. When it is time I lift the camera, frame the shot and fire.
Many lenses with focusing tabs also allow you to learn the physical positions of certain distances. When you gain experience with one of those lenses, you can actually set your focal distance without even looking at the camera by using touch.
While the focus ring is your primary method for changing focus, many rangefinder photographers also use a secondary method of leaning forward and backward for fine focus to increase their focusing speed and accuracy.
A rangefinder has increased limitations at closer focus distances. The rangefinder system aligns the image from the patch window with the viewfinder to find focus. The image you see in the viewfinder is not the image the lens element will capture as your photo. This means at really close ranges, you will have a slightly different angle on your photograph than what you are seeing in the viewfinder.
The rangefinder's coupling becomes less precise at close range, so many rangefinder systems and lenses are locked at a minimum focus of 0.5 - 0.7m.
Framing
Framing in a rangefinder is less accurate than an EVF or SLR system.
You use 'frame lines' to estimate your frame. These frame lines are inset in the viewfinder area, dictated by the length of the lens you are using. What this means in practice is you can often see outside of your frame through the viewfinder rather than being locked to see only what is in the specific frame, as you would with an EVF or SLR system.
The position of the viewfinder on the left side of the camera means while your right eye is viewing the scene through the viewfinder, you can continue to leave your left eye exposed to the larger scene since it is not blocked by the camera. This allows you to anticipate changes to a shot, and reframe quickly with more total visual information.
While this awareness is beneficial, it can also be considered distracting. You are getting a lot more information than just what you are including in your shot.
Since you must use the viewfinder in order to confirm focus and framing, a rangefinder ends up benefiting more traditional shooting angles. These are positions the human head and body can access, rather than angles you can view with an exterior tilting screen. In my experience, this means you tend to shoot more 'proper' shots with a rangefinder for portraits, street, and landscape rather than experimental angles.
Another reason you might shoot more traditional styles with a rangefinder is because the frame lines don't support extremely wide lenses, since the frame lines can be wider than the viewfinder. Long lenses are also more difficult to use with a rangefinder since they take up an increasingly smaller area of the viewfinder. Physically large lenses also end up blocking part of the viewfinder's viewable area when the lens inhibits the line of sight. This is why lenses like 28mm, 35mm, and 50mm are most popular on rangefinder systems.
Optical Experience
Shooting with an optical view, unconnected to the actual lens element means you are missing a lot of information when framing your shot.
There is no obvious exposure preview. Most rangefinders have a small light balance indicator (two arrows and a dot, analog needle, etc.) which lets you know if your total exposure is under, over, or matching your meter's setting.
You do not have access to a histogram or clipping indicators through the viewfinder. You must imagine if the shot will be over or under exposed based on what you expect the meter has decided is appropriate for the scene. Some rangefinders do not even have a light meter, so you will be choosing your exposure with an external meter or an exposure heuristic like 'Sunny 16'.
There is no depth of field preview. You cannot see how your aperture will manipulate the output of your shot. This means you once again have to imagine the results based on the information you have and your experience with your lens.
You need to pay more attention to your camera's condition as well. You cannot see if there are smudges or dirt on your lens through the viewfinder. You might not even know if you have left your lens cap on or if a finger is blocking the shot.
A major advantage to an optical rangefinder is your view is not inhibited while the shot is fired. Often with a mirrorless or SLR camera, the viewfinder is temporarily unavailable while the shot is being taken. The lack of interruption on a rangefinder means you can stay 'in the moment' and prepare for the next shot, while the current shot is being recorded.
The frame lines in the viewfinder are generally created organically from the light within a scene, which means in low light scenarios, you might not be able to see the frame lines well.
The quality of your eyesight is a greater variable with a rangefinder system than with most EVF and SLR systems. There is no built-in diopter compensation. If you have trouble seeing something in real life, you will have that same trouble in a rangefinder viewfinder. Glasses can push your eye further away from the camera which means you might not be able to see the full viewfinder or the frame lines accurately. If your eye has trouble focusing at certain distances in real life, those same distances will be difficult to focus in a rangefinder.
I find that a rangefinder pretty much demands you have two hands available. If you are carrying something, you generally need to put it down or away in order to operate the camera.
Finally and most obviously, you do not get the immediate satisfaction of seeing your shot with a rangefinder. On digital rangefinders with a screen, you can of course use the screen to view your shots and adjust, but through the viewfinder window, you will not see the results of your shot.
The Physical Camera
A rangefinder camera looks like what people often imagine as a traditional camera. This allows the rangefinder to blend into some situations, but it also makes it stand out in other situations. People will often assume it is a film camera, even if it is digital.
Rangefinders are also fairly quiet. Their shutter sound is less pronounced than an SLR. The quietest shutter will of course be an electronic shutter, but a typical rangefinder shutter sound will rarely bring much attention.
The tactile controls of a rangefinder are often a source of joy. You can control the camera entirely via the focus ring, aperture ring, shutter speed dial and the shutter itself (as well as an ISO dial on digital rangefinders). This physical control also contributes to keeping you in the moment and focused.
One common issue for rangefinders is calibration drift. The patch mechanism can become misaligned over the course of time and require adjustment.
Final Thoughts
The rangefinder shooting experience is challenging and engaging. I love being forced to imagine and stay active in the photographic process.
I end up hitting more shots because I'm paying attention to more things. I'm looking for shots in an active way. I feel deliberate by necessity, not by discipline.
It reminds me of driving a manual transmission vehicle without any stability controls. I need to be paying attention to everything happening in the vehicle in order to operate it correctly. An automatic transmission might be faster and safer, but it lacks the engagement I feel with manual control.
If that sounds appealing to you, a rangefinder is likely an enjoyable experience that will be demanding and rewarding.